Japan here we come

Couple of days in Kobe

The Meititsu Bus turned out to be as enjoyable as the Willer Bus, well nearly. They didn’t have the pull down hoods, which I’m rather fond of but they did have an onboard toilet, which Rich is even more fond of!

Even though we had an onboard facility, the bus still stopped for refreshments. I have no idea where the stop was but it was freezing. Icy winds whipping up a storm. There were several men, whose task it was to direct the buses, car and trucks to the parking bays. What a job – standing outside in that weather all day!

We arrived at Sannomiya Station on time and proceeded to the subway to catch our train to Motomatchi (which was in reality a 10 minute walk, but more of that later) where we had booked an Airbnb apartment. Funnily enough we found Sannomiya station more confusing that Shibuya, in Tokyo. We ended up going in the wrong direction, so we jumped of at the next stop and reversed our journey.

Once we did arrive at Motomatchi, our Airbnb was literally three minutes walk from the station. Of all our Airbnb’s this was had the best location ever. We were able to again walk everywhere within 10 to 20 minutes and it was just around the corner from China Town.

Kobe - it was even cold on the subway..

We had both thought Kobe would be a tad warmer, as it was a bit farther south. WRONG! It was even colder than Nagoya, possibly because of the location between mountain and sea. Still, we survived.

Our apartment, Motomatchi, Kobe

Kobe, Motomachi, best location possible

Fortuitously it was Chinese New Year, so our first evening was spent in China town. The place was really going off. Lots of stalls selling steamed buns, and Peking duck pancakes, grilled meats, prawns – you name it, it was being cooked and sold. There was also the obligatory Chinese dragon dance and some lovely, half dressed girls (e.g. they didn’t have huge coats like the rest of us) doing what looked like a workers dance from communist China. The Japanese Policemen, with their immaculate white gloves kept the crowd moving, but very politely.

Chinese New Year in China Town, Kobe

We had a great Chinese meal for dinner. The hostess at the front was very charming but once they had lured us in the door, the usual China Town service took over, complete with lots of gnashing, chewing and talking amongst themselves and ignoring us. I guess the Japanese good manners, influence only goes so far.

Even Spiderman showed up Chinese New Year!

Next day we spent discovering Kobe. We found we could walk to Sannomiya in 10 minutes (whereas it took at least 15 minutes to navigate the train stations). Kobe had the usual long run of indoor interconnecting malls, that we had seen in Nagoya and Kyoto, last trip. However, as China Town was located off the side alleys of the main shopping mall, it went from from posh and shiny to a bit seedy…..right up our street.

Kobe alleyways

We had yet another visit to Donki and Daiso on our third day, as I still wasn't satiated! Third time was a charm and very successful.  We scored a completely necessary plastic container for microwaving spaggetti. 8 zips for $2 (Rich was particularly excited about that), bicycle spokes and lights, two pairs of toe socks for me (so sexy) and ankle and leg physio supports (that turned out to be no better than socks but hey what can you expect for 100yen). Best buy was a very cool hat, we found for Richie. 

Richie channelling The Chairman of the Board in his new hat from Daiso.

We had planned to go to Harbourland but we were waylaid by a very warm and welcoming bar. We had planned a quick drink to warm us up but then we met a chap, called Neil, who was a nuclear salesman from England and the crack started. We had quite a few drinks, so many that Neil did a runner (well actually he forgot to pay his bill and did return, very sheepishly, about an hour later.

Waylaid by a friendly plutonium smuggler...

still civilised in early evening

later that night.....

The bar was tiny, probably seated about 15 people and was full all evening. People were being turned away from the door, so as the chosen ones, we were able to give them smug looks all night.

On the way home, we had a craving for some greasy food, so we stopped of for a late dinner at a ticket machine place. It  happened to be next to our apartment. We weren’t exactly sure what we were ordering, as the pictures don’t always match up. We got pretty efficient at using the ticket ordering system. It's really convenient, as long as you are a bit flexible (or you can read Japanese). Once you have selected your tickets, you enter the restaurant, hand the tickets to the waitress or Chef and voila, fabulous food arrives. Sometime cooked right in front of you. 

The big night with Neil, took its toll so we were up extra bright and early the next day (2pm). We spent a late and lazy Sunday afternoon at Harbourland. It was full of families and children, I think it must be where the locals hang out on the weekends, at least it was warm.

Harbourland, the Sunday place in Kobe

The habour was destroyed in the last earthquake and was completely rebuilt. It was very impressive, and well set out with the biggest Ferris wheel we’ve seen.

The harbor is really nice at night, as everything lights up, but man it was so cold. Colder than our first night in Nagoya!

Kobe Harbourland, evening

We were pretty hungry and in need of some starch, after the BIG night. We lucked out again and found a funny restaurant that served Doria. We only found it by looking at the plastic food in the window. Anyway turns out Doria is a kind of Japanese gratin. The dish was brought to Japan by an Italian chef in the 1800’s and the locals modified it. It was delicious - basically rice with a white sauce and whatever you fancy, then a bit of cheese and under the grill. I had bacon and eggs, Richie had mushrooms and chicken. The also had hamburger, bolognaise, Tempura, boiled egg, sausages. We are loving the plastic food - it’s a great way to understand what a dish really is all about.

Plastic food, so helpful

Dora, Japanese Gratin, nom nom

Our final day we decided to go up the mountain to Mount Rokko. We caught a train to Rokkomitchi, jumped off straight onto the number 16 bus (and we could use our trusty ICCOA cards, more on that later), up to the cable car, then up the mountain. 

Cable Car station Rokkomitchi

Rokko was a much bigger area than we thought. We alighted the cable car and got onto yet another bus for a trip around to the other side Rokko. It was a strange place, a bit Japanese village, a bit tatty and very touristy but pleasant enough. The best bit, apart from the views was the Tenran Café, with a blazing fire, lovely service and windows overlooking the valleys below. 

View of Kobe from Rokkomitchi

Improved view of Kobe from Rokkomitichi?

It was covered in snow, ice and sludge but we did manage to walk around quite a bit. On the way down, we had to share the cable car with about 40 small school children; fortunately they chose to sit in the open-air car, whilst we sat indoors. Oh the imperviousness of youth!

Rokkomitichi, snow!!!

Cafe at Rokkomitichi

Warm at last

We made one final trip to Donki, to buy some headphones, which I decided we really needed. Oh did I mention that once you get into Donki, it’s nearly impossible to get out? They cleverly manage to hide the stairs and the lift away behind stock in the farthest corners… we just took to following people and eventually we were freed.

This is what happens when you can't find the exit in Donki!!!

Our last dinner in Kobe was a wonderful little dumpling place. It was around the corner from China Town and we just lucked on it. We had three plates of delicious dumplings accompanied by lots of little dishes of pickles and vegetables.

Last meal in Kobe, very Japanese dumplings in China Town

So now its farewell again to Japan. We caught the very reliable airport limousine bus from Sannomiya station, very painless . Kansai airport was unbelievable busy but so efficient. We got through the whole process in about 40 minutes. Including locating the postbox and returning our pocket Wi-Fi.

So all in all our winter journey to Japan was a success. We did find the cold a bit tiring. We already knew that a couple of weeks spent in cities wears you out, especially with all the walking we do. (oh the day in Ebisu, Tokyo when we got lost, the pedometer showed we walked for 14 km – all whilst wearing 10 kg of clothes!!!).

The pocket wifi was indispensible, we really relied on good old google maps to get us about. We used the same ICCOA card from our last trip, again it was easy to use. Having the card meant we could jump off and on trains and buses without worrying about change etc. Easy to top up and check the balance at every station and you can also use them in the drink vending machines if you wish.

Next time we visit lovely Japan, we may concentrate on the southern region. But then again, we’d hate to miss catching up with Seiiji in Tokyo.

Now for our well earned weeks slobbing at the Sheraton Lombok….. mega breakfasts here we come…

Final week at Lombok, same old same old but fabulous