Japan here we come

Tokyo Second Time Around

Five days in Shimokitzawa

So excited to be visiting Japan again. The Air Asia flight was painless. We came prepared (food, water, movies, own inflight kit) as usual.

Even with no hassles, we were pretty tired when we finally reached Tokyo at 10pm. We landed ahead of schedule, did all the airport duties very quickly including changing money and locating the shuttle and arrived at our hotel, JAL City Haneda at 11pm.

The hotel room was, as expected super small, but adequate. However, we couldn’t figure out the heating/air humidifier for the first few hours. Then just as we finally drifted off, (5.30am by this time) a van with a loud speaker came down the road making some announcement. We looked out of the window to see people running down the road. As Taiwan had just experienced a biggish earthquake, we were a bit panicked. But it slowly dawned on us that people were just running for the train. No idea what the loud speaker was about, one of those things….

Next morning, with our heads full of cotton wool from lack of sleep, we somehow managed to get back to the airport to collect our Wi-Fi device and work out the train (2 changes) to Shimokatizwa, to find our Airbnb place. By hotel standards the accommodation is HUGE, but if you had to live here all the time, it’s tiny.

Cosy in our Tokyo Airbnb

Did I mention the weather yet? How un English of me….. it’s bloody freezing. The ground is still piled up with un-melted snow from the snowstorm, two weeks ago. We’ve taken to wearing pretty much all of our clothes at once. Fortunately we brought our big winter coats with us, so we are surviving. On the plus side there are fewer tourists here and places are not so crowded.

Snow, first time in 30 years!

Our first night in Shimokatz, (as we locals call it) we went to the Little Soul Bar. Which was a very groovy, small, cosy bar where the DJ/owner played really obscure soul music. The walls and tables were covered with pictures of black women, presumably soul singers. I had a couple of warm whiskies (flavoured with cinnamon and nutmeg) perfect for the climate. 
Wasn't mad about the 500yen cover charge, but that seems to be the way here. 

Looking very soulful.

Oh forgot to mention the fun little stand up lunch place, where we had Poutine (I know, Canadian junk food in Tokyo…..but we couldn’t find anything and we needed a drink badly by this time). It was fun, very small, big enough for about five people and we had a couple of drinks to get the heart(s) started.

First of many beers in Japan

We slept very late on our second day in the apartment, and headed out, at lunchtime, to Tokyo Station. We had our first lunch experience, using the ticket machines. Delicious and very easy. Mainly because the Japanese are so friendly and helpful. I ended up with cold noodle dish, but it was unexpectedly nice.

The Imperial Palace was our next destination. We didn’t do a tour (we aren’t that interested) but walked around the lovely gardens, enjoying the flowering plum trees. We saw more tourists here than anywhere else, so far. No doubt it would be packed in the season.

Flowering Plum trees, Imperial Palace

Imperial Palace in all my winter clothes

After the palace we visited the MOMAT (museum of modern art tokyo). It was okay, nothing to write home about and we got weary pretty quickly. I must say that wearing 10 kg of clothes, makes walking around extra tiring – well that’s my excuse anyway.

We plan to catch the Willer bus to Nagoya, so decided we would take the route to the bus station and see how long it took us (good travel tip, as it’s a bugger carrying your suitcase through the massive train stations, with their endless tunnels, when you don’t know where you are going). Also Shinjuku is the world largest train station, so a little pre planning goes along way. 

We found the bus station okay and worked out a good route, with no changes (Odakyu Line). Shinjuku was pretty lively, and we saw some of the winter illuminations that Tokyo is famous for. 

Winter illuminations and sparkly faces

We had dinner in Shinjuku (ramen and tempura this time) and headed back to our lovely little Airbnb apartment. The train ride home, was fun – super packed, but we didn’t have to worry about falling over or being able to move your hands! And finally got to see the man with the white gloves, pushing people onto the train to shut the doors.

Some of the many winter lights in Tokyo

Next day we were up and out bright and early (read 12noon). The destination of choice was the Yebisu Beer Museum in Ebisu, only one stop from Shibuya. It was nice to be in the suburbs, definitely more peaceful. 

Just posing for the camera, I still don't like beer

The Yebisu Beer Museum was fun, quite flash and not too big. You could do a tasting for 400Y but Richard, being the beer snob he is, informed me that proper beer drinkers don’t do tastings and so he had a pint instead. There were lots of Japanese ladies drinking beer, always good to see and another reminder of how different Japanese culture is, to the rest of Asia.

I had the bright idea of walking to the canals in Ebisu as they were said ‘to be lined with elegant cafes and bars’. Hmmmf..... I didn’t do my homework properly on this one, it was a good 30 minute walk and there were no cafes and bars to be found. We also go royally lost, so ended up walking up and down hills for a good hour, whilst wearing 10kg of clothes. 

Canals, Ebisu

On the bright side, we got a good look at the streets and homes in the area. Tokyo has a greater population than ALL of Australia! I find that mind blowing. Anyway it was interesting to see how you fit 30 million people into one city. The car parking alone is a thing of ingenuity. Also people make little gardens on any scrap of dirt or line the outside of their houses with pot plants.

Gives doubled parked a whole new meaning

We were completely knackered after the long walk, so we had a coffee and beer stop and headed off to Shibuya. We were suitably dazzled by the lights and the crowds and the crossing but decided we didn’t have the energy, so after a stroll we headed back to Shimokatz and found a cute little Italian bar for dinner.

Unexpectedly Saturday turned out to be our last day in Tokyo. We got up bright and early on Saturday morning (read 11 am) to book our bus to Nagoya. Woe behold, all the buses were booked out on Monday and Tuesday.  After looking at flights, trains etc., we decided to take the only bus seats we could find on the Sunday and leave a day early. 

In the early evening we met lovely Seiji in Shibuya, at the Hachiko dog statue. Well us and about 70 other people, apparently it’s a common meeting place and when you have the population of Australia……..etc.

Famous Hachiko statue, Shibuya

We hadn’t seen Seiji since we were last in Tokyo, so it was great to see him, also meant we didn’t have to think for the evening, just follow him around and be entertained. 

Seeing Seiiji again, after 3 years

He took us to a fabulous restaurant, somewhere in Shibuya (we’d never find it again). We had our own private room, with sunken tables. After too much food and merriment, we headed off to a ping-pong bar. Not the Thai kind!!! 

Always great to catch up with old friends

Both Richie and Seiji were complaining of various injuries, aches and pains but it didn’t stop them from having a ripping game, to admiring looks from the other punters! A fun evening was had by all. Oh forgot the Ping Pong Sour cocktails…. Say no more!

Tokyo International Ping Pong Open

Ping Pong icecream nom nom

We bid Seiiji farewell at the end of the evening, very sad we only ended up sharing one evening. Until next time.....

Next day we had a very painless journey from Shimokatz to the Willer bus terminal in Shinjuku (because we pre planned it.......... smug look). Now on the relaxing Willer bus to Nagoya. It’s a five-hour journey, nothing to do but relax, look at the scenery and annoy Richard, if I get bored – perfect.

On the Willer bus again